Which saree is the queen of the saree?
A question shout-out to all the fashion queens! Have you ever wondered who the Queen of Sarees is?
Not one, but two queens - born in different parts of India but together ruling the textile industry.
The South Queen – the Kanchipuram silk saree – and the North Queen – the Banarasi silk saree – are among the best-selling and most famous silk sarees originating from India, yet versatile globally.
In this RmKV blog, we delve into the fascinating story of Kanchipuram and Banarasi sarees – a tale that will leave you awestruck.
Queen from the South: Kanchipuram Silk Saree:
History of Kanchipuram Silk Saree:
Kanchipuram silk saree originates from the Kanchipuram district ( (also called Silk City) of Tamil Nadu. Every weave of traditional Kanchipuram silk is rooted in a rich cultural and religious history that dates back over 400 years. Back then, the famous Chola king "Krishnadevaraya" boosted the silk trade. The skilled weaver communities, called “Saligars” and “Devangas” from Kanchipuram, exhibited their masterpieces in the six yards. During French rule, this ancient art faced a setback, but now it has gained back recognition across countries.
Highlights of Kanchipuram Silk Saree:
The Kanchipuram saree is all about three things: high-quality mulberry silk, pure gold or silver zari threads, and traditional motifs inspired by temple interiors, nature (South Indian flora and fauna), and mythology. The art of Kanchipuram is a labor-intensive weaving technique that demands great skill and meticulous attention to detail. The best part is that the weavers of Kanchipuram pass on their authentic weaving craft as heirlooms from generation to generation.
Kanchipuram Silk Saree And South Bride: An Inseparable Combo:
Sure, you would know that the Kanchipuram pattu saree is inevitable in South Indian weddings. This ineffable silk art is not just attire; it embodies the rich culture of the region. Brides of the South grace their special wedding day in Kanchipuram silk sarees, adding allure and authenticity to their look while leaving others awe-struck.
What are the Famous Kanchipuram Silk Saree Motifs And Patterns?
Annapakshi (Swan):
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This is one of the most iconic figurines in Hindu mythology.
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In ancient Puranas, Annapakshi is the vehicle of Goddess Saraswati.
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Mostly the divine bird is featured in brass lamps and Kanchipuram silk sarees.
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You can commonly find this butta on the body (as butta), borders, and pallu of the saree.
Yaali:
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From the intricate carvings on temple pillars to the exquisite weaves of Kanchipuram pallus, the Yaali butta has stood the test of time.
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Yaali is a mythological creature with the body of a lion, the head of a horse, and the tusks of an elephant, symbolizing supreme power.
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You can often spot Yaali buttas arranged in rows on the borders, scattered across the body of the saree, and adorning both sides of the pallu.
Iruthalai Pakshi (Two-headed Eagle):
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Iruthalai Pakshi, or the double-headed eagle (Garuda), is a rare and striking butta featured in Kanchipuram silk sarees.
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It appears as buttas on the body, saree borders, and in the pallu.
Mayil Kann (Peacock Eye) and Kuyil Kann (Cuckoo Eye) Design:
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Some of the most renowned designs in Kanchipuram silk sarees are the Mayil Kann and Kuyil Kann.
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A Kanchipuram silk saree or silk dhoti border is incomplete without these buttas.
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The Mayil Kann design consists of thousands of diamond-shaped geometric patterns with a central dot, representing the peacock’s eye.
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In contrast, kuyil kann is a diamond pattern filled with zari in the center, without a dot (denoting the cuckoo's eye).
Thazhampoo Rekku (Temple Design):
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One of the most prominent butta in Kanchipuram design is the Thazhampoo Rekku.
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A row of large triangles (called Rekku) represents temple gopurams and is often woven using the Korvai borders.
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In modern Kanchipuram sarees, temple design appear in both the border and pallu.
Rudraksham:
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Inspired by the Rudraksham bead depicted circular geometric patterns.
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It is woven in a larger format on the body of the saree and in smaller rows on the border and pallu.
Kodi Visiri (Floral Creeper)
The Kodi Visiri, or floral creeper, is one of the most common floral-themed patterns, often woven in contrasting colors on the borders of Kanchipuram silk sarees.
Types Of Kanchipuram Silk Saree:
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Plain: The Kanchipuram plain silk sarees have a plain body, offering a simple yet elegant look. Highlighted with contrasting big zari borders steeped in traditional Kanchipuram designs, they are timeless masterpieces.
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Buttas: The most common design in a saree is the buttas on its body. The saree is decked with small and big traditional buttas woven in golden or silver zari, adding a touch of richness and tradition.
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Geometric Patterns: As the name suggests, these sarees feature symmetrical designs like checks, stripes, diamonds, and other geometric patterns that are simple, ever-popular, and widely praised.
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Korvai: In Korvai sarees, weavers manually attach the body of the saree to the borders. The Korvai border always comes in contrasting colors. The process involves two weavers sitting opposite each other to weave the Korvai saree.
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Bridal: Meticulously crafted for South Indian brides, RmKV's bridal sarees feature grand and heavy jacquard, annam chakram-enclosed checks, floral jaal, intricate checks, ogee, buttas, geometric designs, etc in colorful colors.
Queen from the North: The Banarasi Silk Sarees:
History of Banarasi Silk Sarees:
The Banarasi silk saree is a treasured art of Uttar Pradesh. Its origins date back to the Mughal era in the 14th century. The Mughals were patrons of the arts and promoted textile craftsmanship with new weave techniques and designs. Especially during the reign of Mughal Emperor Akbar, Banarasi weaving advanced significantly and reached new heights.
Highlights of Banarasi Silk Sarees:
They are finely handcrafted with silk and delicately woven with gold and silver threads, also known as jacquard or zari work. It features Mughal-inspired motifs and Persian-inspired designs. It comes in vibrant colors and is adorned with intricate designs woven in sparkling zari. One of the well-known Banarasi saree versions is the Katan silk saree( pure silk). This saree is embellished with pure silk and intricate motifs and designs, mirroring the tales of Mughal and Persian artistry. The grand embellishment of the Banarasi Katan silk saree makes it ideal for weddings and special occasions in North India.
Banarasi Silk Saree And North Bride: An Iconic Combo:
An authentic Banarasi silk saree is more than just attire; it is a wedding tradition, a treasured heirloom, and a timeless trove of Mughal heritage. With its regal motifs, flawless drape, and opulent zari embellishments, it epitomizes sophistication and grace, making it the ultimate choice for brides.
What are the Famous Banarasi Silk Saree Motifs And Patterns?
JACQUARD
Floral Jaal: The iconic design of the Banarasi silk saree is the floral jaal jacquard. Most Banarasi silk sarees feature various floral designs, including Mughal-style floral patterns, floral buttas, diagonal floral stripes, and intricate floral jaal jacquard.
Ogee Design: This is a Mughal-style geometric pattern woven with gold or silver zari work. It is formed by two connected curves—one concave (inward curve that looks like the inside part of a bowl) and the other convex (curving outward that looks like a sphere).
BUTTAS
Floral Butta Buttas: One of the oldest and most famous designs, the floral butta buttas can be seen in golden or silver zari, as well as in colorful threadwork, adorning the body of the Banarasi saree.
Bel Buti Buttas: Along with Mughal-inspired butta, Banarasi sarees also feature Persian-inspired designs. Such butta are the Bel buti—a creeping vine with delicate, curving stems steeped with flowers, small buds, and fruits, overall creating a stunning floral pattern. This design can be woven into either golden/silver zari or resham meenakari threads.
Paisley Butta: The paisley is a traditional buttas that appears in various sarees. Particularly prominent in Kanchipuram and Banarasi sarees, where it enhances the beauty of the intricate designs. In both sarees, lots of traditional and geometric patterns are steeped inside the paisley buttas.
Animal Buttas: Weavers taking inspiration from Indian flora and fauna have never changed over time. Apart from floral design, the banarasi saree comes in animal buttas inspired by fauna originating in India. Animals like birds, horses, deer, lions, horse chariots, etc., are commonly used in the art of banarasi.
FUSION DESIGNS:
The artisans of the Banarasi silk saree are adopting new buttas that give a modern touch without compromising authenticity, which is well embraced by this generation of fashionistas. In RmKV, we have two-craft fusions like Jamdani Banarasi, Paithani-style Banarasi, contemporary geometric patterns, plain body (as Banarasi is known for intricacy), etc.
Banarasi Rangkat Design:
Banarasi Rangkat sarees are a marvelous fusion of Banarasi silk and colorful Rangkat weave. Out of the manifold Banarasi sarees, the Rangkat saree stands out for its intricate weaving and transition of vibrant multi-colors.
Conclusion:
Kanchipuram and Banarasi silk sarees hold an exceptional place in the Indian textile industry. Choosing the "queen of sarees" ultimately depends on personal preference, occasion, and cultural significance.
Whether you opt for a Kanchipuram or a Banarasi silk saree, buying online requires careful consideration. Always check the seller's authenticity and reputation to ensure you receive a genuine saree rather than a second or third copy. Purchasing from an authorized seller significantly reduces the chances of receiving imitated products.
At RmKV, we are committed to providing you with authentic, high-quality Kanchipuram and Banarasi silk sarees, complete with proper silk marks. Our sarees are trusted and cherished by customers across the globe.
