Korvai (Contrast Silk Sarees)

Korvai Silk Sarees

Korvai Silk Sarees is a testimony of the craftsmanship and an emblem of the Kanchipuram tradition of weaving. There is a special feeling when drape a Korvai saree, also referred to as Contrast Saree. Owning a Korvai saree is special as it is handmade and it is the hallmark of an authentic Kanchipuram silk saree. Korvai silk sarees are all about stunning contrasts in colour between the body and the border of the silk saree. When you delicately unfurl a Korvai saree, you will realize that the body is woven in a different colour and pattern which stands out as a contrast from the border and the pallu of the saree.  Hence a Korvai Saree is often referred to as the Two Colour Saree, now you can buy these korvai sarees online.

Korvai is a Tamil word that is used to describe the presentation of musical lyrics in a structured format and is often referred to the organised patterns in music and dance. The word then came into textiles to describe this unique ancient technique used in weaving which is exclusive only to Kanchipuram silk sarees. All Korvai silk sarees are handloom sarees.

Korvai is an old traditional handloom technique that is very unique to the Kanchipuram silk sarees. It is also called “three shuttle weaving.” Three shuttles are used while two expert weavers work simultaneously on the same loom to create magic on this unique Korvai saree. The weavers sit on the either weft edges of the loom, weaving the body and border separately. While one weaver works on the body of the saree, the other weaves the patterns on the border and pallu.  The Zari from the border is then interlocked with the two ends of the saree along the weft while the pallu is attached with the body of the saree along the warp via a process called the “petni method”.  If you touch the bridge between the body and the border you will feel an embossed texture. And when you turn the reverse of the saree’s pallu, you can see the threads from the interlocking process. Both the border and the pallu are woven with different patterns and shaded in myriad vibrant hues, giving the name “Contrast Saree” to the unique style.

This process is special as it involves two skilled weavers working together unlike in a non Korvai saree, where there is only one weaver who single-handedly works on the body, pallu and border himself. However, while both the processes are time consuming and requires a lot of skill, Korvai sarees by virtue of the contrast in colours and borders are more complex and involve more time in designing and dyeing as well. Hence they are considered a treasure among other Kanchipuram sarees.

There are types of Korvai in different parts of the Contrast Saree. Some of them have single or double or even triple borders. One of the types of Korvai is referred to as Pallu Korvai or Body Korvai which refers to the patterns woven in the pallu or the body. Plain Korvai sarees have just a simple single line that connects the body and border. The pattern almost feels like an attached border which also inspires the colour. In this saree the contrasting colours stand out and are distinct as well.

 However, the most fascinating aspect of the Korvai sarees are the vibrant and striking contrasts in colours and designs and with the creative skills of two weavers, the magic is simply unbelievable. And there are different types of Korvai borders as well. However, the very interlocking weave between the body and the border creates interesting patterns as well and the most popular among them is the temple border.

Kanchipuram the city of temples has inspired the weavers to create the iconic motifs of Gopurams, referred to as the spires of the shrine. The temple borders are designed as small triangles also called muggu joining the zari and the body of the saree. Another favourite called the Rekku Korvai or the thazampoo flower which is the flower of the screw pine which is bigger and bolder than the spired towers.

Korvai Sarees are special in many ways and are the pride among different types of Kanchipuram sarees. The contrast sarees showcase hues that are at the varied ends of the palette and the vibrant spectrum of colours are enhanced with traditional patterns. You may find elaborate ornate borders and pallu with minimal and elegant motifs on the body or detailed intricate designs on the body that are contrasted with simple but graceful borders. While the tradition and technique of Korvai sarees are centuries old, contemporary designs have made them evergreen as well. Whichever patterns or colours you may choose, they speak volumes of the skill, creativity and the imagination of the weavers who sit down to create magic with their delicate fingers.