Plain & Checks & Stripes

Plains,Checks & Stripes

These handwoven Kanjivaram silk saris in an array of kattam (checks), vari (stripes), and plain body designs showcase the Kanjivaram weaver’s penchant for balance. Think broad diagonal stripes inlaid with miniature motifs, micro checks offset by flamboyant patterns, and plain body saris embellished with ornate borders and pallus.

By experimenting with warp and weft, the body and the border, this selection explores the richness of the Kanjivaram design repertoire, featuring stunning dotted line stripes, kolam-inspired Beldari stripes, delicate vaira oosi (pinstripes), windowpane checks, paimadi (basket weave) checks and more.

When you think of a traditional Kanchipuram silk saree, you think of the beautiful temple borders, the elaborate pallus and the fascinating motifs like flowers and fruits like jasmine and mangos, animals and birds like elephants and peacocks, and other mythical and mythological elements. But one of the most typical traditional designs are the geometric patterns in the form of beautiful checks and stripes that almost give a three dimensioned effect to the silk sarees. Woven with striking and contrasting colours, these checks sarees ir striped sarees as they are called have the innovative and creative stamp of the weavers from down the ages. There is a timelessness about these patterns that they look trendy even today, even though they have been worn by beautiful grandmothers since yester years. Th e weavers are so adept in blending and weaving the checks and stripes, adding to the geometry of the drape.

While most Kanchipuram plain silk sarees are known for their creative motifs, the checks and stripes called Kattams, Kudos and Varis are unique creations of the weavers . These along with other geometric patterns , including squares are woven to showcase balance as well. Sometimes they are embellished with miniature buttas or buttis or golden zari dots inside them or you can find a combination of the classic stripes and squares and traditional floral motifs or peacocks adorning them as well. Thick or thin, horizontal or vertical, same or different colours, each design is unique in its own way. There different patterns like dotted line stripes, window pane checks, pinstripes among others Plain silk sarees with traditional designs are known for the elegance and grace but there are some silk sarees called striped silk sarees where you can see a part of the silk saree covered with these geometric patterns. In other silk sarees like the checks saree, you can find the entire body woven with them that it almost presents a different texture.

The Kattam and Kodu are not just timeless but they give a creative expression to the weavers who find millions of permutations and combinations while arranging them in the design. The geometric patterns are also mathematical in precion and colours play a defining role in bringing them to life on the silk sarees. There are also symbolical references to the magical grid and mystical astrological and astronomical charts. Kattam itself means an enclosed defined space which is sacred. Even the Kolams using buttas or buttis are made within this square.

While there are millions of combinations and patterns of these checks and stripes in the sarees, you find specific sarees like payadi silk sarees or zaric checks sarees. The payadi silk sarees are created using a special type of weaving and they are inspired by the techniques used in weaving mats and baskets . The squares and checks woven in these sarees give the payadi silk sarees a unique touch. Zari check sarees as the same suggests uses gold or silver zari while weaving the designs and has a grand look. The stripes and squares themselves can indeed create unique patterns. Some of the different types of checks sarees are solid checks, Veldari/beldari checks, dotted checks, poppy seed checks among others.

The poppy seed checks also known as the Kasa Kasa checks in Tamil are so tiny, delicate and fine that they resemble the poppy seeds. There is also the Puliyam Kottai which is the dual coloured checks woven in shades of brown and black with a golden finish that resenble the tamarind seeds.. The different types of sarees weaving unique patterns of stripes include: Vairaoosi Stripes, Veldari Stripes and Vazhaipoo Stripes. While flowers like jasmine have inspired weavers, the traditional flowers of the plantain called Aathi Vazhai in Tamil have been the muse for this pattern. Traditional wavy lines run throught the motif as the Veldari stripes with buttas or dots in between them are another popular favourite. In the Vairaoosi stripe, which is inspired by the needle thin fine lines that are woven along the border, the saree seems to be shimmering and hence the name translates to diamond needle. It is one of the grandest and most traditional yet trendy among all checks and stripes sarees and adds to the classic yet magnificent look with glittering zaris .