Handlooms of India: The Eastern clusters

From resilient tribal textiles to soft Jamdani muslins and intricate ikat silk sarees favoured by royals, the weaves of West Bengal, Bihar and Odisha have left an indelible mark on India's handloom heritage. 

WEST BENGAL

In the West, Bengal has been synonymous with textiles for millennia. The ancient Romans, for example, couldn’t get enough of Bengal’s sumptuously soft muslins. Weavers loosely wove fine cotton threads into fabrics that were poetically called ‘woven wind’. The more translucent and delicate the fabric, the more premium it became; the rural folk, meanwhile, preferred coarse-count cotton. Starching is used to make the yarns stronger and also ensure a crisp drape to the saree. Some of the finest Bengal cotton sarees originated in Dhaka; following Partition, several artisans migrated to Indian weaving clusters such as Phulia, Shantipur, Bardhaman, Dhaniakal and Begumpur. This has created a fusion of styles and techniques, adding another nuance to Bengal’s time-honoured weaves. 

Baluchari sarees 

One of the most distinctive handloom Bengal sarees, the brocaded Baluchari originated in Murshidabad under the patronage of the Nawabi rulers of Bengal and Bihar. True to its aristocratic roots, Baluchari sarees feature courtly scenes on its borders, as well as scenes from mythology and royal hunts. Roth (chariot), dhaki (drummer), palki (palanquin), ghora (horse) and hathi (elephant) bring alive a bygone era. Traditionally woven on the archaic jaal loom, Baluchari sarees are now the products of modern jacquard looms.

 Jamdani sarees 

Perhaps the most popular among Bengal cotton sarees and also known as Dhakai Jamdanis, these weaves are the legacy of pre-Partition Bengal. Fine muslin forms the base, while thicker threads are used to create the Jamdani motifs. Using a needle, the weaver gently lifts the base fabric to embroider the motifs in the extra weft technique. In Farsi, ‘jam’ means flowers and ‘dani’ means vase, and handwoven Jamdani sarees typically feature floral motifs.

Collaborations with Benarasi weavers have resulted in Persian-style motifs on Jamdani sarees and Jamdani patterns on handloom Benaras sarees. These days, you’ll find Jamdani motifs on linen, silk and even khadi. It’s testament to the skill and adaptiveness of Bengal’s weavers.

 Tant cotton sarees
Tant is the people’s fabric, underlined by the fact that ‘tant’ itself means handloom in Bengali. There’s a Tant saree for every occasion. On Durga Puja, women favour white Tant sarees with red borders, called ‘laal paar’ after bridal sindoor. Tant is a staple at pre-wedding functions and, of course, the garment of choice for everyday wear. 

Phulia, Begumpuri & Dhaniakali sarees 

Bengal soft cotton sarees that feel like a gentle summer breeze are favourites for dailywear. In Phulia cotton sarees, the plain body is ridged by broad borders in a contrasting colour. A thin band of motifs runs parallel to the border; the most popular patterns are flowering vines, fish and abstract or geometric shapes. These days, weavers add Jamdani florals to the Phulia cotton saree, further elevating its appeal. 

The Dhaniakali cotton saree is the embodiment of simplicity. A 100-thread-count saree crafted in earthy colours, the quintessential Dhaniakali features a plain or striped body and is distinguished by the ‘khejur churi’ - a thin braid of black and white threads woven along the weft of the pallu. Begumpuri cotton sarees, meanwhile, are fine cotton sarees that are celebrated for their softness. The classic Begumpuri features floral motifs arranged in vertical stripes; their colours match the border and stand out against the body of the saree. At their most basic, Begumpuri sarees have a plain body with a narrow border in a contrasting shade. 

ODISHA
Odisha is a place where influences intersect, like a handloom bringing together warp and weft. While tie-and-dye ikat is the ambassador of the state’s handloom industry, Odisha boasts superlative tussar silk sarees and mulberry silk sarees as well. The diversity of motifs deserves special mention - from tribal geometric patterns that brim with vitality to traditional lotus buttis that demurely dot silk sarees, Odisha’s designs are always a delightful surprise. 

Ikat cotton sarees

Sambalpur dominates the market for Odisha handloom ikat sarees. The cotton is thick, often 40s count, and mercerised. The sarees drape beautifully, and have a slight sheen from the mercerisation process. Single ikat sarees are staples, with only the weft yarns dyed using the resist method called ‘bandha’. 

Tribal life, Hindu mythology and nature influence the designs on Sambalpuri ikat cotton sarees. The machho (fish), phula (flower), shankha (conch), singha (lion), padma (lotus), mayuro (peacock) and baulmala (garland) are favourite motifs for the body and pallu. The woven borders, called phulia, feature layers of florals.

The pasapalli pattern is unique to the Bargarh region and is inspired by checkerboards. The alternating checks in red, black and white hark back to the oldest colours associated with ikat, since they were derived from natural ingredients and also have a religious significance.  

Ikat silk sarees 

Handloom ikat silk sarees are worn for celebrations and even offered to temple deities. Northern Odisha produces tussar and eri silk, while mulberry silk is imported from Karnataka and West Bengal.

Ikat silk sarees generally have simple bodies with dainty motifs while the bolder ikat patterns appear on the pallu. Auspicious flowers, fish or tortoise motifs are arranged in slender stripes on the body, while the border features garlands of flowers such as gendu (marigold) and padam (lotus). Nuapatna, in the Cuttack district, specialises tussar silk sarees with curvilinear patterns and calligraphy of religious poetry. These are offered to the deities of the Jagannath temple in Puri. 

Berhampuri silk sarees 

An exquisite silk weave from southern Odisha, Berhampuri sarees are known for their intricate pallus and smooth texture. The tradition began when the Mohuri kings introduced silk weaving to the area in the 14th century. Today, the weave has been perfected to such a degree that the patterns look the same on the reverse side as well.

The tie-and-dye ‘phoda kumbha’ pattern (featuring fish and tortoise motifs) is perhaps the most coveted, and takes two weavers nearly 20 days to complete on the fly shuttle pit loom. The Berhampuri silk saree often features a double pallu, making the garment more versatile and allowing the wearer to experiment with draping styles.  

Bomkai and Kotpad sarees
Some of Odisha’s most celebrated weaves are tribal creations with a long history. Originating in Bomkai village, this saree is a coarse cotton weave that usually features an attached end-piece or ‘muhajora’. These days, weavers are creating Bomkai sarees with tussar and mulberry silk as well. The signature of a Bomkai saree is a simple body combined with an elaborately-patterned pallu replete with animal and geometric motifs.

Kotpad, woven in Koraput, is a naturally-dyed coarse cotton beauty that’s now catching the eye of saree connoisseurs and textile enthusiasts. Indian madder is used to create shades of red, which are often paired with black and white. Motifs such as conch, crab, boat, axe, and fish are woven through the extra weft technique while large temple motifs form the border, giving it a rustic yet sophisticated look. 

BIHAR
Bihar has a lauded history as the capital of India’s most powerful empires. Though its handloom industry was decimated by the political events of the last 200 years, small pockets are emerging as handloom hubs. Bihar’s weaves are famous for their emphasis on texture rather than design. Plain, striped or checked sarees were often paired with colourful embroidered blouses called ‘jhulas’. Bihar’s preference for minimalistic designs is still visible across its handloom weaves, of which tussar silk and linen have become the most popular.

Bhagalpuri tussar silk sarees 

Tussar silk is called ‘wild silk’ and has a denser, grainier texture than mulberry silk. While handloom tussar silk sarees are woven in several eastern states, Bhagalpur has emerged as one of the premier producers. Bihar’s penchant for simple designs that spotlight the feel of the fabric are on fine display here; Bhagalpuri tussar silk sarees typically feature warm, earthy tones and extra weft stripes on the body and pallu that enhance the fabric’s texture. 

Tribal motifs, kantha embroidery, Kalamkari prints, Madhubani patterns and colour-blocking are also common, but don’t be surprised by newer innovations such as digital prints and abstract patterns in jewel tones. Given that the designs on tussar silk sarees are often printed rather than woven, these handlooms are quick to reflect emerging trends and techniques. 

Bhagalpuri linen sarees 

Bhagalpur’s weavers have skillfully adapted their handloom skills to weaving linen sarees as well. The linen yarns, derived from the flax plant, are either loosely woven or tightly knit to create handloom linen sarees of varying textures and fineness. Weavers are also blending linen with cotton to create sarees that drape like a dream, or silk yarns to create a unique sheen and luxurious handfeel. Tissue linen sarees, a combination of linen yarns and metallic threads, are great choices for occasionwear. In many ways, Bhagalpuri linen sarees are carrying forward Bihar’s textile legacy while showcasing its weavers’ ability to match timeless skills with evolving fashion trends.

In fact, innovation has been one of the hallmarks of the region's handloom industry. From West Bengal's fusion of techniques to Bihar's readiness to meet market demand by adapting weaving styles to new fabrics, the region's weavers are interlacing past and present with extraordinary skill. 

___________________